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How to set up Your Soviet Heavy (Cliff Notes)


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MrWuvems #1 Posted 11 August 2014 - 02:36 AM

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Equipment:

Unlike a lot of these guides, equipment's pretty easy.

Tank Shell Rammer, Ventilation*, Gun Laying Drive.

 

Reason being: your aim time is awful, and you shoot super slow.

Leave vision buffs to crew skills (and later on on them), there's really no helping how awful your view range is. You are a close-range brawler. Embrace it.

*You can substitute a vertical stabilizer if available, perfectly good choice.

 

Consumables:

!SWITCH ALL PREMIUM CONSUMABLE PRICES TO SILVER BY HITTING THE Y BUTTON!

Carry enough premium ammunition, at the least, to knock out your own tank. Probably more.

You need to not be afraid to load an APCR/HEAT round. At close range with super-long reloads, the extra pen will end the fight if you have it, or kill you if you don't. If you're scared for your wallet, this is the wrong line to be using.

 

Unless using a howitzer, do not load more than 5 HE rounds. 122mm ammo is very, very limited.

 

Med packs and Repair kits are mandatory for all tanks.

A fire extinguisher is a good idea at mid tier (5-7) and not bad after that. Your side armor starts getting good as you go up though, so your fuel tanks progressively take less punishment.

Extra combat rations is an excellent, expensive choice that boosts all crew skills.

 

Crew Skills:

If you have a decent supply of gold, always train a crew skill and then retrain into the perk you want. That way you get the skill's effect while leveling it (perks have no effect until 100%)

 

Start with any order of Sixth Sense + Brothers in Arms + Repairs. These are the "big three" of best skills and heavies use them well.

 

Perks:

Track Mechanic. Puny imperialist swine attempt to stop mother Russia tank? NOT TODAY!

Safe Stowage. IS-line tanks have notoriously easy to hit ammo racks

 

Skills:

Mentor. First or not at all.

Pain Tolerance. Loads of good for heavies.

Off-road Driving. Russian heavies have AWFUL terrain resistance.

Firefighting. The preferred method of mitigating fires. Preferred over preventative maint. due to most fires coming from fuel line ruptures. Generally... not as good once you hit the IS-3

Clutch Braking. Turning faster is always good

Jack of all Trades. Strong turret, small commander hatch, good HP pool. Perfect candidates for this skill.

Armorer. At high tier, the gun barrel itself is the only part of the turret they can get through.


Edited by TheMEagle, 02 September 2015 - 02:36 AM.


xusdmovementx #2 Posted 11 August 2014 - 03:13 AM

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Problem with this post is that most of the people that need to read this have never even thought of looking at the forums... Nonetheless, a great guide for Russian heavies.

 

 

 


Nuke2099 #3 Posted 11 August 2014 - 08:40 AM

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Unless your aim time is really bad or vertical stabilisers is not an option you always go with vertical stabilisers over GLD.

 

GLD: Shrinks reticule faster.

Vertical Stabilisers: Makes the starting reticule smaller when moving the tank/turret. Very helpful for peekaboo or just moving while aiming in general.


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MrWuvems #4 Posted 11 August 2014 - 11:44 AM

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View PostNuke2099, on 11 August 2014 - 03:40 AM, said:

Unless your aim time is really bad or vertical stabilisers is not an option you always go with vertical stabilisers over GLD.

 

GLD: Shrinks reticule faster.

Vertical Stabilisers: Makes the starting reticule smaller when moving the tank/turret. Very helpful for peekaboo or just moving while aiming in general.

 

Aim times range from 2.9 seconds to 3.4.

If you move more than 5 feet at a time, GLD.



SemiMediocrity #5 Posted 11 August 2014 - 12:38 PM

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What about the juicy fuel tanks straped on the tank in the back? Do you just hate equipment that increases durability? Ya know like fill tanks with CO2.

BuckeyeVet420 #6 Posted 14 August 2014 - 02:17 AM

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I was always of the belief that if you tank can take a vertical stabilizer, that you fit it. Ventilation and a gun rammer. Thoughts? I just got the IS-8.Can't wait to get the big gun.
 



 

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Nuke2099 #7 Posted 14 August 2014 - 07:51 AM

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View PostOHIO Buckeye09, on 14 August 2014 - 03:17 AM, said:

I was always of the belief that if you tank can take a vertical stabilizer, that you fit it. Ventilation and a gun rammer. Thoughts? I just got the IS-8.Can't wait to get the big gun.
 


I'm slowly on my way to it. Spamming gold if I get into tier 10 games.....yeah I want the best Russian heavy gun!


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TangoLit #8 Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:26 PM

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View PostTheMEagle, on 10 August 2014 - 07:36 PM, said:

Equipment:

Unlike a lot of these guides, equipment's pretty easy.

Tank Shell Rammer, Ventilation*, Gun Laying Drive.

 

Reason being: your aim time is awful, and you shoot super slow.

Leave vision buffs to crew skills (and later on on them), there's really no helping how awful your view range is. You are a close-range brawler. Embrace it.

*You can substitute a vertical stabilizer if available, perfectly good choice.

 

Consumables:

!SWITCH ALL PREMIUM CONSUMABLE PRICES TO SILVER BY HITTING THE Y BUTTON!

Carry enough premium ammunition, at the least, to knock out your own tank. Probably more.

You need to not be afraid to load an APCR/HEAT round. At close range with super-long reloads, the extra pen will end the fight if you have it, or kill you if you don't. If you're scared for your wallet, this is the wrong line to be using.

 

Unless using a howitzer, do not load more than 5 HE rounds. 122mm ammo is very, very limited.

 

Med packs and Repair kits are mandatory for all tanks.

A fire extinguisher is a good idea at mid tier (5-7) and not bad after that. Your side armor starts getting good as you go up though, so your fuel tanks progressively take less punishment.

Extra combat rations is an excellent, expensive choice that boosts all crew skills.

 

Crew Skills:

If you have a decent supply of gold, always train a crew skill and then retrain into the perk you want. That way you get the skill's effect while leveling it (perks have no effect until 100%)

 

Start with any order of Sixth Sense + Brothers in Arms + Repairs. These are the "big three" of best skills and heavies use them well.

 

Perks:

Honestly, you're looking at pretty exclusively skills.

 

Skills:

Mentor. First or not at all.

Off-road Driving. Russian heavies have AWFUL terrain resistance. This should be your 4th/5th skill

Firefighting. The preferred method of mitigating fires. Preferred over preventative maint. due to most fires coming from fuel line ruptures

Clutch Braking. Turning faster is always good

Jack of all Trades. Strong turret, small commander hatch, good HP pool. Perfect candidates for this skill.

Armorer. At high tier, the gun barrel itself is the only part of the turret they can get through.

 

This is incredibly helpful.  Thanks very much for posting this.  I just put the IS-3 M1945 package on my IS-3 and got whacked by a M103... soooooo, I thought I'd check the Forums for some thoughts on how I might improve.  I've read several great bits on how to use the frontal armor, but your post here is by far the most useful in terms of how the tank operates overall, and how to use all the "tools in the kit" to get the most out of it.

 

+1 to you.


 

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TangoLit #9 Posted 22 August 2014 - 07:49 PM

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View PostTheMEagle, on 10 August 2014 - 07:36 PM, said:

Equipment:

Unlike a lot of these guides, equipment's pretty easy.

Tank Shell Rammer, Ventilation*, Gun Laying Drive.

 

Reason being: your aim time is awful, and you shoot super slow.

Leave vision buffs to crew skills (and later on on them), there's really no helping how awful your view range is. You are a close-range brawler. Embrace it.

*You can substitute a vertical stabilizer if available, perfectly good choice.

 

I have an equipment question for you.  I have the Rammer, Binocs and Vents enabled.  I'm sold on the utility of the Rammer and the Vents.  On your recommendation I'll lose the binocs... and I really get that decision.  I had my first ah-ha about this one with the T29 some time ago, so this is a fit too.  I only used them on the IS because of all the distance fighting it needed to do to keep the gun alive and hot (just one guy's opinion).  Now is the question of the Gun Laying Drive or the Vertical Stabilizer.  Of course I know what they both do.  In addition, every time I have the Vert stabilizer option I tend to use it instead of the Gun Laying Drive.  As long as you're moving, aren't they really just redundant to one another?  Is this a mistake if I don't have the Gun Laying Drive?  Any thoughts / recommendations are welcome.  Thanks again.


 

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MrWuvems #10 Posted 23 August 2014 - 03:28 AM

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View PostTangoLit, on 22 August 2014 - 02:49 PM, said:

 

I have an equipment question for you.  I have the Rammer, Binocs and Vents enabled.  I'm sold on the utility of the Rammer and the Vents.  On your recommendation I'll lose the binocs... and I really get that decision.  I had my first ah-ha about this one with the T29 some time ago, so this is a fit too.  I only used them on the IS because of all the distance fighting it needed to do to keep the gun alive and hot (just one guy's opinion).  Now is the question of the Gun Laying Drive or the Vertical Stabilizer.  Of course I know what they both do.  In addition, every time I have the Vert stabilizer option I tend to use it instead of the Gun Laying Drive.  As long as you're moving, aren't they really just redundant to one another?  Is this a mistake if I don't have the Gun Laying Drive?  Any thoughts / recommendations are welcome.  Thanks again.

 

Binocs work on a Tiger 2 because of the power at range.

Binocs work on a T29 because of the gun depression. You can just sit there and shoot anything you spot without needing to move your hull.

 

The IS-3 has neither of these things. You're both not that good at long-range and you're often going to have to move your hull to attack a spotted target. This means you lose binocs bringing your gun to bear. And with the long aim time the spot will drop. Sniping in an IS is wrong.

 

The reason that GLD is good on the IS line is because of the gigantic aim times. Aim time is one of the factors that changes how large your aim circle blooms while moving. Essentially, your stabilizer can't keep up with just how much the aim goes bad on your gun. This means the faster shrinking of the circle becomes better and better.



TangoLit #11 Posted 23 August 2014 - 12:56 PM

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View PostTheMEagle, on 22 August 2014 - 08:28 PM, said:

 

Binocs work on a Tiger 2 because of the power at range.

Binocs work on a T29 because of the gun depression. You can just sit there and shoot anything you spot without needing to move your hull.  Peculiar... as the gun is so inaccurate at a distance I dumped the idea of using optics on this long ago.  This is the Heavy I did my first learning in and the optics lesson was the first big one.

 

The IS-3 has neither of these things. You're both not that good at long-range and you're often going to have to move your hull to attack a spotted target. This means you lose binocs bringing your gun to bear. And with the long aim time the spot will drop. Sniping in an IS is wrong.  I couldn't agree more.  I didn't find them that useful which is partially why I sought your thoughts on the subject.  Thanks!

 

The reason that GLD is good on the IS line is because of the gigantic aim times. Aim time is one of the factors that changes how large your aim circle blooms while moving. Essentially, your stabilizer can't keep up with just how much the aim goes bad on your gun. This means the faster shrinking of the circle becomes better and better.

 

Thanks for that.  I pulled the binocs off, so here's where I am now for my IS-3 (only a few thousand XP away from the final upgrade).  I now have the Rammer, Stabilizer and Vents fitted.  It seems like the aim time is still an issue and that I need to strongly consider moving something out of the way to put the GLD in (Gee, isn't this what you've been trying to tell me?!!).  It seems like the Rammer needs to stay, so it's the Stabilizer and the Vents that are in question.  Normally I would never consider getting rid of Vents as it improves so much performance in every way on the tank (esp including the accuracy, which is so awful on this tank)... but in this case I can't decide if the Stabilizer or the Vents is having the more important net effect on performance improvement.

 

If you were in my shoes, which one would get the boot and get replaced by the GLD?  Do the Vents go, or should the Stabilizer take a hike?

 

Thanks!


 

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MrWuvems #12 Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:12 AM

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View PostTangoLit, on 23 August 2014 - 07:56 AM, said:

 

Thanks for that.  I pulled the binocs off, so here's where I am now for my IS-3 (only a few thousand XP away from the final upgrade).  I now have the Rammer, Stabilizer and Vents fitted.  It seems like the aim time is still an issue and that I need to strongly consider moving something out of the way to put the GLD in (Gee, isn't this what you've been trying to tell me?!!).  It seems like the Rammer needs to stay, so it's the Stabilizer and the Vents that are in question.  Normally I would never consider getting rid of Vents as it improves so much performance in every way on the tank (esp including the accuracy, which is so awful on this tank)... but in this case I can't decide if the Stabilizer or the Vents is having the more important net effect on performance improvement.

 

If you were in my shoes, which one would get the boot and get replaced by the GLD?  Do the Vents go, or should the Stabilizer take a hike?

 

Thanks!

 

If you find yourself shooting at longer ranges, dump the vents... and in the meantime you need a playstyle adjustment for the tank (don't angle, side scrape around corners, never face opponents uphill of you, hug the hell out of German tanks)

At close range, you can use any combination of a rammer + any of the three candidates and be golden.



TangoLit #13 Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:36 AM

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View PostTheMEagle, on 24 August 2014 - 07:12 PM, said:

If you find yourself shooting at longer ranges, dump the vents... I really have given up on shooting at a distance since the gun (and RNG) does not seem to agree with me at a distance in the IS-3.  That said, I had not considered that correlation.  Makes sense.

 

and in the meantime you need a playstyle adjustment for the tank  Man you are right about that.  I'm doing something wrong.

 

don't angle  I aim the hull and the turret straight on to the target.

 

side scrape around corners  I don't mean to be thick, but in different context your statement could be taken either way.  Please clarify for me: do or do not side-scrape.  I've found with minimal angling it side-scrapes well.

 

never face opponents uphill of you  You should write an instruction guide for this tank (more than just the Equipment set-up, I mean).  I found this out the hard way.  If OpFor can shoot down on your hull (at all), you're cooked.

 

hug the hell out of German tanks  Please clarify.  Do you mean when I encounter german tanks (heavies I assume you mean) that I should drive right into them and do the face-hug fight?

 

At close range, you can use any combination of a rammer + any of the three candidates and be golden.  I'll continue to experiment, but I think I found my happy place for equipment: Rammer, GLD and Vents.

 

I don't think there's a tank out there that has challenged my play style this much (I've been entirely focused on British mediums and American lines).  It's hard to swallow when I know it's definitely me and not the tank.  As I've been working through my learning curve I'm having more and more good moments in it.  I think I'm starting to see how it works, so thanks again.


 

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MrWuvems #14 Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:46 AM

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View PostTangoLit, on 24 August 2014 - 09:36 PM, said:

 

I don't think there's a tank out there that has challenged my play style this much (I've been entirely focused on British mediums and American lines).  It's hard to swallow when I know it's definitely me and not the tank.  As I've been working through my learning curve I'm having more and more good moments in it.  I think I'm starting to see how it works, so thanks again.

 

Biggest thing is that you need to choose who you're angling against. Don't face towards your target all the time. Aim towards the biggest threat. Yah, this means don't go in without spotting support unless you have heavy cover (urban settings)

 

Do side-scrape. Your side armor is good and it's angled. At close range, most targets 1v1 you need to be not scared to trade damage. Excepting TDs you outtrade. Remember how you made the T-20 work. Like that, only with a copious armor for bullying lower-tiers.

You try to avoid shooting up-hill because it de-angled your pike. Effectively, turning your strongest point to a weakspot. Your best locations are small rocks and hills that cover your lower plate so your lolturretarmor is the biggest target.

 

German tanks are tall. You see a King Tiger or Panther 2, you can get right up next to their tracks. Unless they have backup there is nothing they can do to scrape you up while you're putting shots into their engine/ammo. Remember how you kill an AT-7 with a medium tank? Generally the same concept.

 



TangoLit #15 Posted 25 August 2014 - 02:52 AM

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View PostTheMEagle, on 24 August 2014 - 07:46 PM, said:

Biggest thing is that you need to choose who you're angling against. Don't face towards your target all the time. Aim towards the biggest threat. Yah, this means don't go in without spotting support unless you have heavy cover (urban settings)

 

Do side-scrape. Your side armor is good and it's angled. At close range, most targets 1v1 you need to be not scared to trade damage. Excepting TDs you outtrade. Remember how you made the T-20 work. Like that, only with a copious armor for bullying lower-tiers.

You try to avoid shooting up-hill because it de-angled your pike. Effectively, turning your strongest point to a weakspot. Your best locations are small rocks and hills that cover your lower plate so your lolturretarmor is the biggest target.

 

German tanks are tall. You see a King Tiger or Panther 2, you can get right up next to their tracks. Unless they have backup there is nothing they can do to scrape you up while you're putting shots into their engine/ammo. Remember how you kill an AT-7 with a medium tank? Generally the same concept.

 

Mercy.  Yup, I'm seeing it.  Thank you.

 

I hope other new IS-3 drivers get a chance to read this exchange.


 

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TangoLit #16 Posted 18 September 2014 - 12:48 AM

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View PostTheMEagle, on 24 August 2014 - 07:46 PM, said:

 

 

Thought I'd shoot you an update on your work... I shelved the IS-3 for a while since I just wasn't getting along with it.  I'm back in it again, and man this thing is starting to purr thanks in part to your excellent help.  I still have a ways to go learning what situations to engage and what to avoid, but things are getting better.  Thanks again!

 

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SM Scorx #17 Posted 31 December 2014 - 05:59 PM

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Good Guide. I would like to throw in either Intuition or Adrenaline Rush for the KV-2 (let's face it: the derp gun needs all the help it can get)

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leova #18 Posted 31 December 2014 - 06:58 PM

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View PostSM Scorx, on 31 December 2014 - 12:59 PM, said:

Good Guide. I would like to throw in either Intuition or Adrenaline Rush for the KV-2 (let's face it: the derp gun needs all the help it can get)

 

Intuition IS A LIE!

Block Quote

  It doesn't instantly reload your gun, but rather picks back up where you left off in the reload process. So if you are 3/4 of the way reloaded, switch your ammo, the perk activates, it continues reloading at 3/4 of the way complete with the new ammo. If it doesn't activate then the reload bar starts completely over.

 

Block Quote

 .it does not "instantly reload" as it suggests, instead it only MAINTAINS current load level - so if you're 50% reloaded and switch to ammo, on the small chance it DOES work, you still only start at 50% reloaded...if it doesn't work you get diddly squat

 

 



SM Scorx #19 Posted 31 December 2014 - 07:48 PM

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View Postleova, on 31 December 2014 - 01:58 PM, said:

 

Intuition IS A LIE!

 

 

 

 

So, Adrenaline Rush would be the better option. Got it.

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John Lethal #20 Posted 01 January 2015 - 08:35 PM

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View PostSM Scorx, on 31 December 2014 - 05:59 PM, said:

Good Guide. I would like to throw in either Intuition or Adrenaline Rush for the KV-2 (let's face it: the derp gun needs all the help it can get)

Intuition is useless on the KV-2 because you should ALWAYS use HE. Accuracy and penetration are too low to use AP.  






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